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NYC to Bald Head Island NC day 20...underway days: 10 We left NYC on beautiful sunny day and got to Sandy Hook inlet and out to the ocean in near perfect conditions. At sunset , 1730, wind came up, 10 - 15 knts, then 20 - 25 knts and gusts to 38 knts 1'-2' swells became 3' then 6', then over 9' , confused seas continued to build all night. Just after dark as we made a tack, the jib sheet jammed on the edge of the block, bending the whole block. Took both of us nearly an hour to free the line, remove the damaged block & get a snatch block in place. I was glad of darkness because all i could see was a wall of water. Huge fishing boats and masts of sailboats disappeared as we fell into each trough. Driving rain and every 10th wave washed into the cockpit over the helmsman...usually G, never complaining, just keepin' on keepin' on i, not being the silent type made comments like "could be worse, it could be raining"...and of course it did..."could be worse, we could be standing still'...which we were, or going backwards even, in force of waves & wind in the nose... a very long, dark, wet, cold and stormy night...estimated 22 hour trip took 30 hours. Despite careful stowing, several items and all cushions littered the cabin floor, but thankfully no damage or salt water inside the cabin. Not one word of these conditions on the VHF weather radio. G checked in with coast guard re: conditions at Atlantic City inlet and once we figured out where it was (waves were so high we couldn't see the buoys) and began our approach to the channel, a coast guard cutter was there to escort us and talk on the VHF radio to give pointers on piloting the inlet...boy were we glad to see them.! So much for waiting out weather in NYC...guess we needed yet another day. That, my 1st ocean passage, was indeed a wild one...but never felt afraid, had confidence in Alegria and G & I working together to be safe and reach the destination. We met Ralph on Compass Rose Grand Banks 40 and Mario & Marie on M&M 40' Chris Craft. They came in to AC a day later. Seas had settled some but was still the roughest they had seen in all 5 trips they have made. After 2 resting days and cleaning below decks we were off again. Seems powerboats and trawlers go same distance as we do, just in less time. We had a potluck on M&M enjoying fresh asparagus & pork cutlets and homemade Cabernet Sauvignon with the crudites and pasta salad Alfredo I took. The Chesapeake City DE to Annnapolis leg weather predicted patchy fog...we hit a 5 hour "patch" of pea soup, not even a boatlength visibility, but thanks to GPS & electronic charts, we kept going and passed unseen gps waypoints [beep beep], stayed just outside the shipping channel and I rode the bowsprit peering into fog following vague sun dazzle pattern & listening to tugboat horns to locate where the next building-sized barge would appear. Annapolis stop gave us a lovely 70 degree Sunday to visit with Linda & Charlie Eilman. Linda was my California roommate, European travels buddy, and Maid of Honor in the 60's. At Linda's request, their efforts to see us are honorably mentioned
Compass Rose left day 2, M&M left the day before we did. They had a relative's car so drove us to West Marine where I bought new rain gear (Henri Lloyd Cruising weight), and to provision. One rainy day they made Italian sausage from Mario's family's market recipe and I brought a superdooper field greens salad with olives, artichokes, fresh parmesan. Our next stopover was Norfolk VA, officially 1/2 way mark between NY and Florida. There we inflated & floated the dinghy, and made ready to officially enter the Intracoastal Waterway [ICW] at milemarker #1...changing from nautical miles to statute miles...mainly motoring, instead of sailing/motorsailing Alegria is being very good to us. we feel safe in all conditions, are comfortable in our little "nest" and despite our modest sailing skill, we make headway and enjoy the ride Hooray for:
we are afixed to dockside pilings in a backbay of Jackson Creek,at Deltaville VA, in tidewater Virginia, a resting day waiting out a blow with 3-5 ft chop on the Chesapeake...not our favorite kind of day on the water we can hear the wind howl, but are sitting pretty...met a nice young couple from the area who gave us pointers on anchorages further south this AM over breakfast of my "famous" cinnamon raisin french toast we have had good fortune to meet helpers when needed, and except for the rough ride offshore in the Atlantic from NYC to Atlantic City ,a 30-hour ordeal of 25-to-38knts wind and 9ft plus seas not predicted or noted by weather radio, we have been able to pick good weather travel days. apparently the average is one weather wait day for every 3 travel days we've rested in Stamford CT 1 rain day, NYC 4 days, Atlantic City 2 days, Annapolis 4 days and now here. We were in the company of naval search & rescue vessels with tug escorts, huge coast guard cutter, cargo ships & barges, wooden schooner (small tall ship), and even 4-5 other sailboats as we crossed from Hampton Roads to Norfolk Harbor...all kinds of boats from many eras. Marina is alongside a mall/hotel/foodcourt complex with dazzling lights. No provisions nearby, but apparently can walk to Nordstroms. One day of travel beyond Norfolk VA made us "bridge veterans"...8 bridges and a lock before mid morning. Our first layover was in Coinjock NC , waiting out a blow of 25-30 mph, 5' seas & rain on Albermarle Sound...a nasty piece of water with any weather at all so i dropped coins [in Coinjock] at laundry & minimarket to make chinese chicken soup...a wok & pressure cooker are wonderful in a galley the restaurant here has good fish and fantastic roast beef...32 oz prime rib dinner for 2 was $26.00 Sweet potato pie & coconut/key lime layer cake good too. such a treat for weary travellers after a long day on the water. g & i reviewed charts to make sense of it all, inflated dinghy to tow & cleaned salt off everything, including us we hope to get to Charleston SC/Savannah GA by Thanksgiving We met Leadership from Canada and Sunspot (John & crew Brett from) MD and saw them here and there all the way through NC. Adventures included table-for-10 at famous buffet (overrated food) in restored antebellum home, now an inn, with local folks who have never been on a boat and crew from 3 other sailboats. During 2 day weather layover and took turns hosting sundowner gatherings of 8 or more. Everyone brought snacks & consumed mucho beer. Trip to Food Lion grocery for beer run & provisions via golf cart took over 2 hours...most of that was travel time, we could have walked faster! Breakfast at diner where ordering was a unique experience. The counter-man had no menus, but came over and sat at our table to see "how y'all doin' this mornin'" and to tell us about all the good things he could have the cook "fix" so no one ever leaves hungry...that young man over there has the pancakes..., how you like 'em young man?...well his plate is nearly empty so guess they were good. That fella has the eggs, grits and ham etc... is it good? etc. Best ever hush puppies at The Helmsman restaurant. Went aground in soft mud in the marina channel (we were a tad off their range) , their skiff pulled us off. Met Panache with Geoffrey and Nancy from Toronto & Great Britain...they followed us for 3 days, saw them last at the pub in Bald Head, and later heard them checkin on the SSB Net from Bahamas. Sunspot followed us in, they went aground at a different spot, both coming and going...we went to dinner at the City Marina restaurant...excellent food, and fried bread...free transportation. Gnats were fierce. Nice upscale mixed residential communitywith marina and golf course...no cars on island, only bikes & golf carts. ferry every 1/2 hour from Southport NC. School kids commute too. Walked the ocean beaches, dinner with Panache 1st night. 2nd day Sunspot arrived from very rough outside passage...we took them touring all around in golf cart we had rented, talked 2 some 70 yr old ladies who have cottage here, they were looking for alligators. Brett joined us for a burger at the pub...John had gone to sleep. our evening ended at 1930 J&G |
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